Monday, February 27, 2006

Marineland Returns 

The site of my childhood annual vacations is making a comeback after struggling through bankruptcies and remodeling since the 90's.... Marineland, the world's first oceanarium and the brainchild of Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney and Ilya Tolstoy, was built in 1938 slightly south of St Augustine, carved into the dunes straddling A1A. Until Disney opened in 1971, it was Florida's premiere theme park, though by the time I was a teenager, it was a sleepy alternative to Orlando for grandparents and grandchildren.

Despite its tepid reputation, Marineland spoiled me for life when it comes to dolphin shows. Sure, Sea World is impressive in scale and hype, but nothing is like leaning on the concrete wall surrounding the performance pool, dangling your arms over the edge while a 600-pound dolphin hurtles itself into the air just feet from your face, flipping into some impossible twist and drenching everyone around and a few people on the sidewalk below. You really felt the bond between the dolphins and their trainers that were really more like playmates and after a few visits felt like you knew the dolphins themselves. Maybe it wasn't the more politically-correct training of today where there is a scientific distance between dolphins and humans, but I'm not sure that was such a bad thing. It seemed like they were filled with joy, and it made you feel that way too.

Besides that, Marineland was a real piece of Floridiana. The dunes, palms, and scrub always seemed to be just short of swallowing it whole. The display ponds with flamingos and other native creatures functioned like tide pools, ebbing and flowing throughout the day. The coquina walls grew crusty with salt and the ocean breeze owned you. The past was ever present in its architecture, pictures and plaques commemorating things like the filming of the Creature from the Black Lagoon. Marineland made you fall in love with Florida like nothing else could.

So after a sad absence and disrepair, the old gray lady of theme parks is back. It's only on the east side of A1A now and focused on up-close dolphin experiences, with a much discounted fee to just wander and watch. The architecture is much more modern and sleek, but finally wears the shiny hope it had missed for so many years. And, of course, it still houses the world's oldest dolphin, Nellie, at 52 years and her best friend Lilly, the last known blond dolphin. Best of luck, Marineland, and welcome back.

Marineland on Wikipedia
Marineland's homepage
About Bottlenose Dolphins
Jacksonville.com article announcing the opening

Comments:
Sadly, do not waste your time or money on this once great attraction, everything is GONE! The shows, 3-D movie, Everything!
They have one tank in the back with the 2 dolphins, swimming in the tank and that is it. It will break your heart, the land across the street where they once held diving shows is gone and is being developed for homes & shops for more retiring Yankees to bring the millions of dollars to! SAD!
 
Thanks for your comment. I did realize the west side had been completely demolished, which is really too bad. They have plans for further development if all goes well the first year, so I'm really crossing my fingers about that.
 
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